Upon arrival to Friday Harbor, it becomes apparent that to get anywhere beyond
downtown, you will need to find a means of transportation beyond your own two feet. Mopeds
whizz by, seaplanes whirr overhead, and boats of every shape and size putt around the harbor.
These all represent viable options for exploring the San Juans, but for those hoping to lay eyes on
the more elusive wildlife of the region, we argue that no better option exists than to paddle, under
your own power, by kayak.
Kayaks separate themselves from motorized watercraft through their lack of engine noise.
Save for the slice of your paddle through the water’s surface, exploring the San Juans by kayak
can be done in near complete silence, a critical component for successful wildlife observation.
And while a sailboat may be considered a similar alternative for a quieter experience, a kayak’s
relative maneuverability remains unmatched; no better option exists for achieving a closer look
at the alien-like intertidal life—urchins, anemones, sea stars—hidden below the archipelago’s
steep coastal cliffs. Our senses become fully engaged as we explore these waters by kayak,
smelling salty air and letting smooth strands of kelp run through our hands as the tide ushers us
further along.
The single strangest wildlife encounter the author has ever experienced on a tour: a common murre, a species of seabird that only comes ashore to breed, jumped on his kayak along the west side of San Juan Island and stayed aboard for several hundreds yards of paddling. It is hard to imagine this happening on any other vessel than a kayak.
Without combustion engines to spoil our presence, wildlife continues about their daily
duties unbothered. The standard for ethical wildlife observation is to do so without altering the
animal’s behavior. Sometimes, however, despite our best efforts to adhere to regulations
established to keep a safe distance between observer and animal, certain species will approach
our boats out of curiosity. These infrequent encounters often take the form of an inquisitive
harbor seal pup sneakily tailing our unit, some of which go so far as to give a playful slap to the
rudder, but can be far more thrilling at times. Pods of orcas will occasionally alter their path
toward our unit and make a pass at a close distance. While such encounters are the exception
rather than the norm, they hold immense power in their ability to instill core memories in the
mind of younger guests, or return adults to long-lost state of childlike wonder.
Only in a kayak can we experience such moments at eye-level and be truly immersed in the moment.
~Miles Brengle
Miles is an alumni guide and naturalist who has begun his career chasing birds around the world. You can follow along with his adventures, writing, and photography through his Instagram.