Hiking and Exploring in the San Juan Islands

San Juan Island

The southern arm of San Juan Island where American Camp, a national historical park, is located, offers a number of great hikes and walking trails with amazing views. Of course, it is always interesting to check out the history while exploring the grounds of American Camp, but just a short distance from the Visitor Center are a number of San Juan Island’s gems to explore.


Mt. Finlayson is the highest point in American camp, offering great views of Mt. Baker to the east, Mt. Rainier in the southeast, the Olympic Mountains to the south and British Columbia to the west. The trail meanders up a gentle grassy slope that allows you to take in the view of South Beach below. After about a 1.5 mile walk, you can either turn around and walk back or continue a loop through Jakle’s Lagoon. Instead of looking out onto Haro Strait, this trail is sheltered by a Douglas fir Canopy. The trail leading to the lagoon is a secluded area that is host to an array of wildlife, including raptors and deer.



Across Cattle Point Road from the trailhead to Mt. Finlayson is South Beach. The pebble covered shore stretches along the length of Cattle Point, framed by tall grassy bluffs on one side and open ocean on the other. This is a great spot to have a picnic lunch and walk by the water.


If you are on the northwest side of San Juan Island near Roche Harbor, you will find the English Camp National Historical Park. The grounds of the old English encampment are well-kept with gardens and preserved buildings. From English Camp there is a steep 1.25 mile trail that leads up to the top of Young Hill. A panoramic view of the some of the Gulf Islands, Vancouver Island, Westcott Bay and Garrison Bay provides a breathtaking treat at the top of Young Hill that makes the hike well worth the effort.


Lime Kiln Point is known as the best spot on San Juan Island for whale watching. Hang out on the rocks by the lighthouse and wait to see the Orca Whales pass up and down the Haro Strait. In addition to the whale watching, there are other short walking paths around Lime Kiln Point State Park.


Orcas Island

Orcas Island is home to the highest point in the San Juan Islands, Mt. Constitution. Standing at 2,409 feet in Moran State Park, Mt. Constitution is one of the longest and most challenging hikes of the islands, but it is certainly do-able for the average active person. At the foot of Mt. Constitution is Cascade Lake, a pristine lake surrounded by dense, lush forest. You can walk around the entire lake (about a 3 mile loop) or continue past it to the Mt. Constitution trailhead. After a steep and sometimes strenuous climb, you will reach an unparalleled view at the top of the mountain. At the top is an observation tower that was built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in 1936. On sunny days, it is possible to see Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, the Cascade Mountains, and many northern islands. Make sure to bring a camera. Roundtrip, the hike is a little less than 7 miles.


Turtleback Mountain is on the west side of Orcas. The Turtleback Mountain Preserve is the largest preserved area of land in San Juan County with a variety of animal species and habitats like grasslands and Garry oak woodlands. There are some great trails here with more beautiful views of the islands.


Lopez Island

Lopez Island is a quiet and undeveloped island with some beautiful, undiscovered places to explore. Shark Reef Sanctuary is one of these spots. This nature sanctuary is home to an array of native sea birds, seals, and other marine life. No bikes, camping, or fires are permitted here, but it is certainly worthwhile to stop by and take in the view.

On the east side of Lopez is Spencer Spit State Park. You can camp here for the night or just stay and explore the trails around the unique spit formation, go beach combing, or watch the sea birds that gather here.

I am a Pacific Northwest newbie. Jobs, vacations, family and love have kept me moving far and wide throughout the US and the world, but never to this region. Well, unless you count a visit to Uncle Ed’s house in Oregon when I was five…since I don’t remember it all that well, I guess I don’t. Twenty-eight years later, I’m back and I brought a camera so I’m sure to remember this time. I’m here in Friday Harbor working for Outdoor Odysseys, a kayak tour outfitter operating sea kayaking tours on San Juan Island; rough life, right?

I drove from Illinois. I took six weeks or so to do it. After a layover in Texas and crossing California the long way, I was right back at Uncle Ed’s. He’s a faculty member in the College of Forestry at Oregon State and, let me tell you, he has the best way of reading the story of the forest to newbies like me. My Oregon family played terrific hosts and it was a special treat to hang with them for a week. Corvallis is a cool town with a great farmers market, paved trails and a Goodwill “Superstore”. I didn’t even know Goodwill Superstores existed! Now that I have been on island for a few weeks I can tell you, I did not take full advantage of all the super store had to offer…

Fleece? Had some; bought some more. Guess what, not enough. When Midwesterners are cold, we put on a sweatshirt. Here, cotton is not king. Spring on San Juan Island has proven to be the light traveler’s wardrobe challenge. A few chilly, drizzly days in a row and I think, ok, I know what to wear to be warm and comfortable. Wouldn’t you know it (and I’m not complaining here), it ends up sunny and 70. Dress for that and here comes the cool rain. Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

Speaking of sunny and 70, this PNW newbie had the very best weather last Sunday for a first sea kayaking experience! Our mighty group of nine, lead by the knowledgeable Magda, wandered the west side of the island in search of adventure, sun and wildlife. The orca whales eluded us, but we enjoyed balmy temps, spied peek-a-boo harbor seals, and glimpsed a regal bald eagle. Our yummy vegetarian beach lunch came at just the right time and gave us the fuel we needed for our return trip.

Two and half weeks on island and the newbie feel is starting to wear off, a little. Mother Nature is still being tricky, but the sun has been out three days running with a more than favorable weekend forecast. Can’t wait to head out kayaking again, but maybe this weekend I’ll grab lunch at the San Juan Island farmers market and watch for orcas from shore.

Sarah Comes to Friday Harbor!

There’s no better excuse to explore than having a friend come to visit. My best friend of many years, Sarah, came all the way from Colorado to visit me in Friday Harbor. Of course, being in the San Juan Islands, we had to go sea kayaking. I took her on a day trip with Karrie, one of my favorite guides. Luckily it was a gorgeous, sunny day on the water. Along the way we spotted a harbor seal pup,some bald eagles, and purple sea stars. While at lunch, a pod of orcas passed by to the excitement of Sarah and our other guests.

The next day we wandered around downtown Friday Harbor, poking around all of the cool shops like Serendipity Book Store, Second Act Consignment Shop, and King’s Marine. Naturally, we checked out the Whale Museum and learned some awesome facts about the orcas that are so famous here.

Later on we headed over to Pelindaba Lavender Farm. The lavender was in full bloom and looked like Unfortunately, no woman can subsist on lavender shortbread cookies alone, so we decided to grab some seafood for dinner. We took a short trip on Roche Harbor Road to Westcott Bay Oyster Farms for fresh seafood provisions. a sea of purple spread out over the hillside. Sarah bought a package of lavender shortbread cookies that were Deeeee-licious. Yum!
This is the last season that the oyster farm will be here, so I was glad that we were able to experience some mollusk magic. A man that worked there gave Sarah and me each a free oyster on the half shell. It was expectedly slimy yet surprisingly scrumptious. We bought a half pound and cooked them up later that night. It was an interesting experience to say the least.

On Sarah’s last day here we went down to South Beach on the southwest side of San Juan Island and walked along the beach for awhile, enjoying the sun and the amazing view of the Olympic mountain range. Eventually it came time for her to leave on the ferry and begin her journey back to Colorado. Although I was sad that Sarah had to leave so soon, it had been a great chance for us to catch up, relax, and experience the grandeur of San Juan Island.

Behind the Scenes!
-Lauren

When you are on the water with an Outdoor Odysseys sea kayaking trip in the San Juan Islands enjoying the scenery and cuisine, it’s easy to overlook the amount of work that goes into prepping for a trip. The day before a trip, the guide(s) are hard at work shopping for food, making sure that dietary concerns are met, packing food into compartments, loading boats and gear, and checking off their checklists down to the very last spatula.

Each guide has their own style of prep depending on the kind of trip, who he/she is working with, and the number of people on the trip. For example, Magda likes to get her gear together first. She sets up tents to make sure they are working properly, gathers up her utensils, puts together a “buzz bag” full of tea, coffee, and hot chocolate, and loads life vests and spray skirts into the trailer. Nikken, on the other hand, has her food prep down to a fine art. After creating the menu for the trip, she makes a mini grocery spreadsheet that she takes shopping with her and then organizes all of the food by meal.

Even the office staff pitches in to help get ready for trips. We harvest a variety of fresh lettuce and herbs from the garden like arugula, red oakleaf, rosemary, lemon thyme and flat leaf parsley. We also have a Rainier cherry tree that is currently in prime harvest season. Soon to follow will be plums, apples, and peaches that are ripening on the tree. Growing some of our own food helps us to live up to our eco-friendly reputation and guests love our home-grown produce.
Getting ready for a trip takes a lot of “behind the scenes” effort in order to run smoothly. With a lot of hard work and attention to detail, we try to give guests the best trip possible.

Women on the Water June 30th-July 2nd
-Lauren


I could feel a few butterflies fluttering around in my stomach as Laura, Nikken, and I drove into Friday Harbor to meet our first Women on the Water (WOW) guests of the season. Anxious? Excited? Super-excited? I was definitely a mixture of all of the above when we picked up our nine rambunctious ladies and headed toward San Juan County Park. As the fog burned off to reveal a glorious sunny day, everyone, including me, was ready to get out on the water and sea kayak in the San Juan Islands. After packing up all of our food and gear, we launched!

Our adventurous group consisted of Judy and Laura, a dynamic and athletic duo who came with us to celebrate Judy’s birthday. Shannon and Izzy were an adventurous couple as were Laura and Carol, two friends from Oregon. My paddling partner was Carole, an easy-going and experienced traveler, and last but certainly not least were our two intrepid adventurers Carole and Alix.

As we paddled out of Small Pox Bay and the Olympic Range came into view, I discovered that everyone in our group had a talent, or rather, a love for singing. We sang everything from James Taylor to old camp songs and by then end of the trip we even planned on producing our own platinum album. Perhaps it was our beautiful voices that lured the wildlife toward our boats because we saw bald eagles, rhinoceros auklets, harbor seals, and even Dall’s Porpoises surfacing behind us.

We pulled our kayaks into Prevost Harbor of Stuart Island and set up camp in a site overlooking the boats below. The three of us guides started cooking dinner, our guest Laura whipped up a killer salad dressing, and the rest of the women explored
the surrounding trails and beaches. Over savory tortilla soup followed by a fresh blueberry peach cobbler I listened to some of the women share about their lives. Despite everyone’s unique backgrounds, it was amazing how quickly we were able to connect with one another through a love of the outdoors and the satisfaction of having a full belly of delicious food.

The next day, we woke up to a bright, cloudless sky. After a spinach and goat cheese frittata breakfast, we consulted the tides and weather for the day and decided to circumnavigate John’s Island. It was low tide when we left which provided us with great opportunities to see some marine life. The rocky shore was dotted with purple sea stars and a few blood stars and below us were forests of seaweed and kelp. There were some rough paddle spots, but we powered through with some muscle and cheered on Laura and Carole’s boat yelling “Go C7! C7 in the lead!” We even made sure to take a break and blow some blueberry scented bubbles while on the water. Back at camp, Laura and Nikken stayed behind to make dinner while the rest of the women and I went on a hike to Lover’s Leap and Turn Point Lighthouse, two great scenic spots on Stuart Island. When we looked out from the cliffs at Lover’s Leap out onto the open ocean and the Canadian Gulf Islands we were all left speechless. The view was gorgeous and a few of the ladies spotted two porpoises in the water below.

As much as we wanted to stay and take in the view, our stomachs were rumbling so we booked it back to camp like “horses to the barn” (as Alix put it). Of course, according to Stuart Island tradition, we all had to throw a rock at the old rusted car on the way back while making a wish.

That night, after dinner, we had a special surprise for Judy’s birthday: A double layer chocolate cake with blueberries and whipped cream. Yum! It turned out to be a festive night filled with lots of laughter and WOW spirit. The all women group allowed for a relaxed atmosphere— it was easy to connect with one another and laugh and talk about anything. As one of the ladies commented, “What happens on the WOW trip, stays on the WOW trip.”

We slept well that night with tired muscles and full bellies and woke up the next day refreshed and ready for one more day of paddling. Once we launched our boats in Prevost Harbor, our guest Laura led the group in coordinated “paddle calisthenics.” We entertained the curious gawkers from the surrounding yachts and ended with the grand finale move of “right fish stab.” After our warm up, we paddled from Stuart Island back to our final destination: Roche Harbor on San Juan Island.

Three days went by so quickly! I was sad to see these ladies go, but it was a hilariously fun and memorable trip. I can’t wait to meet other fun and unique women on more Women on the Water adventures this summer. Go WOW!

Notes from The Coop
Mt. Finlayson Hike

Due to some strong suggestions from the office staff, I find myself at South Beach, a spot usually not discovered while sea kayaking in the San Juan Islands, hiking with Clark’s dog Celeste up Mt. Finlayson. This end of the island is a favorite for many locals, and I can see why. The trail to the top of Mt. Finlayson is bordered by tall yellow grass where deer meander until they catch sight of my presence and then bound off into the woods. To my right, I look out over the ocean to miles and miles of cerulean water and waves that silently crash onto the shore below. In the distance, the Olympic Mountains appear to jut out of the water. Their white, snow-dusted peaks are covered with a shroud of misty clouds. I feel like I am caught in the middle of colliding worlds; sky, forest, ocean, and mountains surround me.

Celeste and I pause at the top of Mt. Finlayson to look around and then follow the trail down towards the beach. South Beach, like most of the beaches here on the island, is marked by bleached white logs and driftwood that have washed up on the shore throughout the years. These driftwood remnants contrast starkly with the dark pebbly shore and also serve as makeshift benches where I can sit and watch the waves roll in.

I throw a stick for Celeste for awhile and then we head back up towards the car. I’m sure that I will come back here again sometime soon. It’s the perfect spot to get a little exercise, relax, or eat a picnic lunch, all while basking in the picturesque beauty of San Juan Island.

Notes from The Coop
Staff Training 2008

Our staff training trip replicated the three day “Eagles and Orcas” sea kayaking trip in the San Juan Islands in which we all played the part of the guide—shopping for the food, packing the dishes and gear, loading the boats, checking the currents and tides, etc. Our group made for some interesting dynamics and fun memories. Magda is an experienced sea and white water kayaker who earned the nick-name “Hot Magma” on the trip due to her expert kayak moves. Frewin Hermer used to work for Outward Bound before hopping aboard with Outdoor Odysseys. His best friend Jonathon Herzog who is familiar with paddling around the islands also came along for the ride. In addition to this goofy pair, Laura Caldwell also joined us as a first year guide. In the off-season she works as a nurse in Seattle. Finally, we had Kaitlin Lorino, office staff and part-time guide, Tom Murphy, our seasoned 4th year guide and trainer, and me!

Our first paddle day was chilly and damp, but once we started moving I immediately warmed up. Of all the necessities needed on the kayak, a frisbee was the most important. Fortunately, the currents were not that strong and we were able to have a little game in the middle of Spieden Channel.

Past Spieden, the opening to Reid Harbor on Stuart Island became visible. We passed Gossip and Cemetery, two micro-islands that stand like sentries guarding the mouth of the harbor, and paddled slowly into our destination. An osprey nest was perched at the top of a bare tree, and as we landed, the osprey took off and slowly circled in the air above us like a white and brown speckled kite. We set up camp along a ridge overlooking the harbor below. The sun set languidly, casting a pinkish glow on the water as we exchanged stories and laughter over bowls of Mediterranean Smoked Salmon pasta courtesy of guide/trainer, Tom Murphy, Outdoor Odysseys fourth year guide.

That night, while sleeping, Frewin discovered that the deer on Stuart Island have a sweet tooth. Apparently he had not managed to clean all of the whipped cream off his face from dessert that night, and he was rudely awakened by a deer licking his cheek with relish. Frewin did not appreciate the deer’s effort to clean his face for him and screamed. The deer scampered into the forest and Frewin scampered into a tent where he remained the next night.

The next day we circum- navigated Stuart Island, which provided us with intimate views of marine wildlife including river otters, purple sea stars, porpoises, bald eagles, harbor seals, and pigeon guillemots. We were tired by the time we got back to camp, but we still had enough energy to hike up to Lover’s Leap, a spot overlooking Turn Point and stunning views of the Canadian Gulf Islands.

The next morning we woke up early, packed up camp, and headed back for San Juan Island. It was a gorgeous, sunny day and we made good time across Spieden Channel and into Roche Harbor. After a leisurely lunch, we headed back for The Coop where we would then unload and clean up after an hilarious and adventurous trip.

Notes from the Coop
Lopez Island

My first day off happened to be gray and drizzly but the damp weather wasn’t about to douse my sense of adventure. I had already made up my mind to visit Lopez Island, another hotspot for sea kayaking in the San Juan Islands and also the island considered best for cycling since it is relatively flat. I left on board the 11:40 ferry with my bike and a backpack loaded up with camping gear.

A steep hill greeted me as I disembarked the ferry which was quite the obstacle to ride up while wearing a giant backpack. But once up the hill, it was smooth sailing down to Odlin State Park, my campsite for the night. The site where I pitched my tent was nice, a lush green hideaway surrounded by tall firs with an opening that overlooked the seas below. There was no way I would be able to build a fire because it was still raining and by now the fire pit was thoroughly damp. Oh well. I forgot to bring matches anyway. I loaded up a small backpack with some necessary items, and hopped on my bike.

As I got out on the road, the countryside was undeniably beautiful. Rolling grassy hills dotted with aging farmhouses. Horses, cows, and the occasional sheep roamed the countryside and growing along the ditches that lined the road were purple lupines and a wild yellow flowering shrub. I rode into Lopez Village on the west side of the island. The little town consisted of one main road with some tiny shops, bakeries, and restaurants. Two people had recommended that I try Holly B’s Bakery so I did. The oatmeal raisin cookie and the slice of pizza that I devoured were amazing. Next time I’m there I will be sure to try the carmelized onion brie bread (Kaitlin’s favorite).

After lunch and a short tour around Lopez Village, I headed towards Spencer Spit State Park. I passed some open pastures with a great view overlooking the water. The clouds even began to part and I saw the sun. Almost immediately I was filled with a sense of optimism and excitement….Spencer Spit State Park! I parked my bike and walked down a wooded trail to the beach. The spit was shaped like a triangle with a marsh in the middle of it. The sand deposited by currents coming from the north and south gave it a symmetrical shape. At this point, the sun was really shining through the clouds at this point and my mood was lifted by the beauty of the area. Bleached logs lined the gravelly beach and I sat on one and watched the waves rolling in. It was low tide and it smelled like it too. The pungent salty odor was refreshing.

By the time I returned to Odlin State Park, the sun was beginning to set over the water. I sat on a bleached log and watched the ocean turn a rosy hue. My first time on Lopez Island had been an enjoyable one.

Notes From the Coop
San Juan Island Marathon and Half Marathon

Today was race day on San Juan Island! The annual San Juan Island Marathon and Half Marathon began at the fairgrounds in Friday Harbor and I decided to join the pack. I thought the half little exercise. The gun sounded at 8:30 am, and everyone took off down Argyle Street into downtown Friday Harbor. We must have been quite the spectacle for curious tourists who were just stepping outside to grab some breakfast. The runners included hardcore, muscled marathoners, joggers dressed in Hawaiian hula skirts and everyone in between. I qualified as an in-betweener, just ready to have fun and use the beautiful scenery as a way to distract myself from the pain that was sure to develop in my legs. 

The first five miles followed San Juan road, a quiet road surrounded by miles of open pastoral land. A faint scent of manure floated in the air as I ran by a pasture with some grazing cows. On an up-hill leg, I noticed a quaint blue house with alpacas in the front yard! This was quite a different experience than my last race that took place on the city streets of Denver. As we turned onto Wold Road, thickly wooded forests enclosed around us. Every couple of miles, families that had camped out to cheer on the runners offered us water, Gatorade, and the occasional slice of orange.

After a killer uphill on mile six, we reached Pelindaba Lavendar Farm. Fields of lavender sprawled out before us. Although the lavender hadn’t bloomed yet, I made a mental note to stop by here later in the summer when a sea of purple was sure to emerge. Around mile 8, the marathoners split off to the right, following a route that would lead them to the west side of the island, the spot where Outdoor Odysseys goes sea kayaking in the San Juan Islands. I was curious to know if the marathonerswould end up seeing Orca whales along the coast, but the downhill prospect of Bailer Hill Road was, at the moment, more appealing than having to run 13 extra miles.

The finish line in front of the San Juan County Fairgrounds

Finally, I passed the island’s small airport, turned onto Argyle, and used my last ounces of energy to run up the steep hill that led to the finish line. Yes! Not only did I achieve a personal best in the race, but I also got a tour of some of the gorgeous countryside of San Juan Island. Maybe next year I’ll even run the full marathon. Maybe…