Thursday, May 28, 2009

Hiking and Exploring in the San Juan Islands

San Juan Island


The southern arm of San Juan Island where American Camp, a national historical park, is located, offers a number of great hikes and walking trails with amazing views. Of course, it is always interesting to check out the history while exploring the grounds of American Camp, but just a short distance from the Visitor Center are a number of San Juan Island’s gems to explore.


Mt. Finlayson is the highest point in American camp, offering great views of Mt. Baker to the east, Mt. Rainier in the southeast, the Olympic Mountains to the south and British Columbia to the west. The trail meanders up a gentle grassy slope that allows you to take in the view of South Beach below. After about a 1.5 mile walk, you can either turn around and walk back or continue a loop through Jakle’s Lagoon. Instead of looking out onto Haro Strait, this trail is sheltered by a Douglas fir Canopy. The trail leading to the lagoon is a secluded area that is host to an array of wildlife, including raptors and deer.



Across Cattle Point Road from the trailhead to Mt. Finlayson is
South Beach. The pebble covered shore stretches along the length of Cattle Point, framed by tall grassy bluffs on one side and open ocean on the other. This is a great spot to have a picnic lunch and walk by the water.


If you are on the northwest side of San Juan Island near Roche Harbor, you will find the
English Camp National Historical Park. The grounds of the old English encampment are well-kept with gardens and preserved buildings. From English Camp there is a steep 1.25 mile trail that leads up to the top of Young Hill. A panoramic view of the some of the Gulf Islands, Vancouver Island, Westcott Bay and Garrison Bay provides a breathtaking treat at the top of Young Hill that makes the hike well worth the effort.


Lime Kiln Point is known as the best spot on San Juan Island for whale watching. Hang out on the rocks by the lighthouse and wait to see the Orca Whales pass up and down the Haro Strait. In addition to the whale watching, there are other short walking paths around Lime Kiln Point State Park.


Orcas Island


Orcas Island is home to the highest point in the San Juan Islands,
Mt. Constitution. Standing at 2,409 feet in Moran State Park, Mt. Constitution is one of the longest and most challenging hikes of the islands, but it is certainly do-able for the average active person. At the foot of Mt. Constitution is Cascade Lake, a pristine lake surrounded by dense, lush forest. You can walk around the entire lake (about a 3 mile loop) or continue past it to the Mt. Constitution trailhead. After a steep and sometimes strenuous climb, you will reach an unparalleled view at the top of the mountain. At the top is an observation tower that was built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in 1936. On sunny days, it is possible to see Mt. Rainier, Mt. Baker, the Cascade Mountains, and many northern islands. Make sure to bring a camera. Roundtrip, the hike is a little less than 7 miles.


Turtleback Mountain is on the west side of Orcas. The Turtleback Mountain Preserve is the largest preserved area of land in San Juan County with a variety of animal species and habitats like grasslands and Garry oak woodlands. There are some great trails here with more beautiful views of the islands.


Lopez Island

Lopez Island is a quiet and undeveloped island with some beautiful, undiscovered places to explore.
Shark Reef Sanctuary is one of these spots. This nature sanctuary is home to an array of native sea birds, seals, and other marine life. No bikes, camping, or fires are permitted here, but it is certainly worthwhile to stop by and take in the view.

On the east side of Lopez is
Spencer Spit State Park. You can camp here for the night or just stay and explore the trails around the unique spit formation, go beach combing, or watch the sea birds that gather here.


I am a Pacific Northwest newbie. Jobs, vacations, family and love have kept me moving far and wide throughout the US and the world, but never to this region. Well, unless you count a visit to Uncle Ed’s house in Oregon when I was five…since I don’t remember it all that well, I guess I don’t. Twenty-eight years later, I’m back and I brought a camera so I’m sure to remember this time. I’m here in Friday Harbor working for Outdoor Odysseys, a kayak tour outfitter operating sea kayaking tours on San Juan Island; rough life, right?

I drove from Illinois. I took six weeks or so to do it. After a layover in Texas and crossing California the long way, I was right back at Uncle Ed’s. He’s a faculty member in the College of Forestry at Oregon State and, let me tell you, he has the best way of reading the story of the forest to newbies like me. My Oregon family played terrific hosts and it was a special treat to hang with them for a week. Corvallis is a cool town with a great farmers market, paved trails and a Goodwill “Superstore”. I didn’t even know Goodwill Superstores existed! Now that I have been on island for a few weeks I can tell you, I did not take full advantage of all the super store had to offer…

Fleece? Had some; bought some more. Guess what, not enough. When Midwesterners are cold, we put on a sweatshirt. Here, cotton is not king. Spring on San Juan Island has proven to be the light traveler’s wardrobe challenge. A few chilly, drizzly days in a row and I think, ok, I know what to wear to be warm and comfortable. Wouldn’t you know it (and I’m not complaining here), it ends up sunny and 70. Dress for that and here comes the cool rain. Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

Speaking of sunny and 70, this PNW newbie had the very best weather last Sunday for a first sea kayaking experience! Our mighty group of nine, lead by the knowledgeable Magda, wandered the west side of the island in search of adventure, sun and wildlife. The orca whales eluded us, but we enjoyed balmy temps, spied peek-a-boo harbor seals, and glimpsed a regal bald eagle. Our yummy vegetarian beach lunch came at just the right time and gave us the fuel we needed for our return trip.

Two and half weeks on island and the newbie feel is starting to wear off, a little. Mother Nature is still being tricky, but the sun has been out three days running with a more than favorable weekend forecast. Can’t wait to head out kayaking again, but maybe this weekend I’ll grab lunch at the San Juan Island farmers market and watch for orcas from shore.